Seven Steps to Earthquake Safety

Seven Steps to Earthquake Safety

These steps were developed by members of the Earthquake Country Alliance and are based on many existing resources and the advice of many organizations.  Earthquake Country Alliance member have specific things they need to do before, during, and after an earthquake so as to reduce earthquake damage and injuries, and to speed recovery.  But, you need to do your part.

1.  Identify potential hazards in your home and begin to fix them.

2.  Create a disaster-preparedness plan.

3.  Prepare disaster supplies kits.

4.  Identify your building’s potential weaknesses and begin to fix them.

5.   Protect yourself during earthquake shaking- drop, cover, and hold on.

6.   After the earthquake, check for injuries and damage.

7.  When safe, continue to follow your disaster preparedness plan.

Source:  Putting Down Roots in Earthquake Country

 

Emergency Sanitation

 

Dave & Peggy Balmforth

Shelley Idaho South Stake

October, 2009

One of the most important aspects of sanitation is waste, which is the predominant cause of disease after an emergency.  The three most important things to do are:

1. Bury or store all garbage and human waste at least 100 feet away from water wells or open water.
2. Keep flies, roaches and animals out of the sewage and garbage;
3. Wash or clean your hands whenever you handle something dirty and BEFORE you handle anything that you will be putting into your mouth or someone else’s mouth.

Disposal of Garbage and Rubbish

Garbage may sour or decompose, rubbish (trash) will not, but offers disposal problems in an emergency. Garbage, or any mixed refuse containing garbage, must be carefully stored and handle if odor and insect nuisances are to be prevented. Since rubbish alone is fairly easy to dispose of, garbage should be kept separate from it and not mixed. The following suggestions will make it easier for you to take care of the refuse problem.

1. Garbage should be drained before being placed in storage containers. If liquids are strained away, garbage may be stored for a longer period of time without developing an unpleasant odor. After straining, wrap the garbage in several thicknesses of old newspapers before putting it into your container. This will absorb any remaining moisture. A tight-fitting lid is important to keep out flies and other insects.
2. You should keep one or more 20-gallon cans on hand for emergency use, if possible. If you live in an apartment building, get the largest kitchen garbage container for which you have space.
3. Other rubbish may be burned in open yard areas (if permission is granted by authorities under existing conditions) or left at dumps established by local authorities.  Cans should be flattened to reduce their bulk. Do not deposit ashes or rubbish in streets or alley ways without permission. Such material may interfere with the movement and operation of fire-fighting and other emergency equipment.

Final disposal of all stored garbage and refuse can be accomplished in the following manner, provided there is no danger from radioactive fallout:

1. 1. All stored garbage should be buried if collection service is not restored and if unpaved yard areas are available — keep a shovel handy for this purpose. Do not dump garbage on the ground, because it will attract rats, skunks and other scavengers. Dig a hole deep enough to cover it with at least 18-24 inches of dirt, which will prevent insect breeding and discourage animals from digging it up.
2. Do not establish a community dump without permission from the proper authorities. Garbage dumps quickly become infested with rats capable of carrying disease germs over a wide area. If necessary, local authorities will pick sites where refuse may be left for supervised burning or burial as soon as conditions permit.
3. Other rubbish may be burned in open yard areas (if permission is granted by authorities under existing conditions) or left at dumps established by local authorities.  Cans should be flattened to reduce their bulk. Do not deposit ashes or rubbish in streets or alley ways without permission. Such material may interfere with the movement and operation of fire-fighting and other emergency equipment.

Emergency Sewage Disposal

Proper management of toilet facilities during times of emergency may have greater affect on your health than any other single element of sanitation.

Unsanitary toilet conditions can be lethal, yet with proper planning and precautions it is very easy to insure good health.

• Water flush toilets cannot be used when water service is interrupted.  The water remaining in the fixture is not sufficient to flush the wastes down the sewer. Clogging may result and your living conditions then become just that much more uncomfortable.
• Even if the water is on, if the electricity is off there is no way for sewage to be pumped through the lines and the sewage will back up overflowing your toilet.
• Even if water is available, local authorities may ask you not to use flush toilets, wash basins, and other fixtures connected with soil pipes. The sewer mains may be broken or clogged, which would make it impossible to carry off such waste; or water may be needed for fire fighting or other emergencies. It is necessary for every family to know emergency methods of waste disposal in case such conditions arise.
• Failure to properly dispose of human wastes can lead to epidemics of such diseases as typhoid, dysentery, and diarrhea. At the same time, sewage must be disposed of in ways that will prevent contamination of water supplies used for drinking, cooking, bathing, laundering, and other domestic purposes simple steps that any family can take to dangers and discomforts.

If the water lines are damaged or if damage is suspected, do not flush the toilet. Avoid digging holes in the ground and using these. Untreated raw sewage can pollute fresh ground water supplies. It also attracts flies and promotes the spread of diseases.

Emergency Toilets Disposal

Toilet – It takes many gallons of water to flush a toilet. You must choose if you want to use your water for flushing or for drinking. You may want to use an alternative type of toilet to save your water. Or just flush once a day!

Outhouse – When making an outhouse you must dig deep – to prevent animals from digging the area. After each use, sprinkle chlorinated lime over the waste to control bacterial and disease

Bucket – A plastic bag lined bucket works for a make shift toilet. If you put a toilet seat or portable seat on the bucket it makes it more comfortable

Plastic bags – If a bucket is going to be planned for your emergency toilet, make sure you also store extra plastic garbage bags so that you still have some bags for trash.

A tightly closed trash can, can be used for storage of waste.

STORING CHLORINATED LIME in your garage is a good idea for use with any of these temporary toilets. You need to be concerned with bacteria and disease during a time like this.

Toilets – #1 – If the toilet bowl and seat in your home are still usable (not wrecked) scrub the bowl clean using one part of laundry bleach to ten parts of water (10:1). When clean, drain the bowl and dry it. Line the bowl with a plastic or paper bag.

Line the inside of the first bag with a sturdy plastic bag and lay the toilet seat on it to keep it open. Use the toilet as you normally do. After every use, sprinkle the waste with the bleach/water solution mentioned above or cover it with a layer of sawdust, wood shavings, lime, dry dirt, grass clippings, etc.

Limiting the liquids that go into the bowl will make it easier to change the bags. When the bag is full or you can’t stand the smell anymore, carefully tie the top of the bag tightly closed, remove it, and replace with another bag. Dispose of the waste using the instructions below.

Disinfectant: When using bleach use ¼ cup bleach to 1 quart water.

Other chemicals that can be used in place of liquid chlorine bleach are: HTH (calcium hypochlorite swimming pool supply stores and is intended to be used in solution. Following the directions on the package it can be mixed and stored.

Caution: Do not use calcium hypochlorite to disinfect drinking water as it kills all the beneficial bacteria in the intestinal tract and thus causes mild diarrhea. Portable toilet chemicals, both liquid and dry, are available at recreational vehicle (RV) supply stores. These chemicals are designed especially for toilets which are not connected to sewer lines. Use according to package directions. Powdered, chlorinated lime is available at building supply stores. It can be used dry. Be sure to get chlorinated lime, not quick lime which is highly alkaline and corrosive.

Caution: Chlorinated products which ar intended to be mixed with water for use can be dangerous if used dry. You may also use powdered laundry detergent, Lysol or other household cleaning and disinfecting products such as chlorine bleach, baking soda, alcohol, or creosol or an insecticide to keep down odors and germs.

 Supplies for Disinfecting and Odor Control:

Baking Soda: will help to control odor; it stops mold, fungus mildew, and is a natural Whitener. Baking soda relieves heartburn, indigestion and it neutralizes acids in a sour stomach associated with diarrhea. Use 1 teaspoon of baking soda mixed with 1 cup of water and drinks it down. Baking soda plus a little salt will help clean your teeth.

3% Hydrogen Peroxide (Put in a small spray bottle, no water added) Hydrogen Peroxide is an antiseptic, and a cleaning agent for minor cuts and abrasions. It can be used as an oral rinse and gargle. To disinfect toilet seat just spray it on and wipe off.

White Distilled Vinegar: Put in a small spray bottle, no water added. Studies show that vinegar kills 99% of bacteria, mold, and 80% of germs (viruses). To disinfect toilet seat just spray it on and wipe off.

Combining Vinegar and Hydrogen Peroxide:

Spraying solutions of vinegar and hydrogen peroxide, one after the other, in any order, kills virtually all Salmonella, Shigella or E. coli bacteria on heavily contaminated surfaces.

Borax: This is used to cut down the stench. (1 teaspoon every time you do your duty)

Lyme: This is used to break down the waste. (1 teaspoon every time you do your duty) Store this in its original paper bag and off the floor.

#2 – If your toilet bowl is not usable, use a five or six gallon bucket, wooden box or some other container sturdy enough to sit on. Sit the seat from your toilet on the bucket or make one from layers of heavy cardboard glued together, two boards laid across the top with a gap between them or cut a seat from plywood. Line with bags as outlined in #1 above. Dispose of the full bags using the instructions below.

#3 – If the emergency will only last for a day or two, you can use “cat holes” outside. These are small, onetime personal use holes you dig in the ground and squat over. The hole should be deep enough to cover your waste at least 18 inches deep when filled. Do not do this any closer than 100 feet from open water or water wells or the germs in the sewage will get into the water.

#4 – If the emergency will last more than a week and your toilet or bucket commode no longer will do the job you need to make a latrine. Use a shovel or posthole diggers to dig a pit four to six feet deep and about one foot wide. Place a bucket, box, barrel, or anything with a hole in it that you can sit on over the pit. Whatever you use must cover the pit tightly so that flies cannot get in while no one is using it. The seat and box must be cleaned regularly with the bleach water solution mentioned above and kept tightly covered when not in use. When the pit fills to within eighteen inches of the top, fill the hole in with clean dirt and mound it over. Cover the mound to keep animals from digging it up.

Where radioactive fallout does not present a hazard, a temporary  pit privy may be constructed in the yard for use by several families. This offers a good method of waste disposal over extended periods of time.

The structure need not be elaborate, so long as it provides reasonable privacy and shelter. The pit should be made fly proof by means of a tight-fitting riser, seat, and cover. A low mound of earth should be tamped around the base of the privy to divert surface drainage and help keep the pit dry.  Accumulated waste should be covered with not less than 18 inches of earth when the privy is moved or abandoned.

NEVER deposit human waste or garbage on the open ground. If you have no other alternative for disposal, it is safe to bury waste in trenches 24-30 inches in depth.

Emergency Chemical Toilet

5 or 6-gallon plastic bucket (with tight fitting lid) (6 gal. is higher & easier to use & stores most of the following items)

• 2 large boxes of garbage can liners (30 gallon size)
• 2 boxes trash can liners (8-10 gallon size)
• 4 pairs of rubber gloves
• 1 gallon liquid chlorine bleach or other chemical
• ½ gallon white distilled vinegar
• 2 boxes baking soda
• Pinesol® or Lysol®
• Ammonia – as an aid in disinfecting
• 1 large bottle of hand sanitizer
• 6-8 rolls toilet paper
• 1 roll of paper towels
• 1 large package of baby wipes
• 2 – 1 liter bottles of water
• 3 – spray bottles
• folding camp shovel with serrated cutting edge – for digging latrines and disposing of wastes.
• feminine sanitary supplies

To use this toilet simply remove the contents from the bucket, insert a large plastic garbage can liner into the bucket and fold the edges over the rim of the bucket.  Mix one cup of liquid chlorine bleach to one-half gallon of water (one to ten ratio — do not use dry or powdered bleach as it is caustic and not safe for this type of use) and pour this solution into the bucket. This will kill germs and insure adequate coverage. Though the bucket may be somewhat uncomfortable to sit upon, it certainly beats the alternative. For greater comfort you can remove the seat from the toilet and secure it to the top of the bucket.

After each usage replace the lid securely upon the bucket to keep insects out and to keep the smell contained. When the bucket is one-third to one-half full, tie the garbage bag liner shut and dispose of it appropriately (i.e., burying it, placing it inside a large covered metal garbage can for later disposal, or placing it in an approved disposal location). Put another liner inside the bucket and continue as above.

Controlling Odors and Insects

Insecticides and deodorants should be used when necessary to control odors and insects breeding in containers that cannot be emptied immediately. At least 2 pints of household bleach solution should be kept on hand for disinfecting purposes.

Other Supplies

Keep on hand an extra supply of toilet tissue, plus a supply of sanitary napkins. If there is illness in the house that requires rubber sheeting or other special sanitary equipment, make sure that adequate supplies are available. At least a week’s accumulation of daily newspapers will come in handy for insulating bedding from floors, and lining clothes against cold, as well as for the sanitary uses already mentioned. Other possible items include a plastic bedpan, laundry detergent and bleach – another plastic bucket could be used as a washing container, clothes pins – to hang up wet clothing, Cotton dish towels or bath towels, paper towels, sponges and scouring pads for cleaning, bar soap, liquid soap or disinfecting disposable cloths, baby wipes, etc. for cleaning hands, etc., Vaseline Petroleum Jelly, Cornstarch, rat, mouse & insect traps — if you think that you don’t have a rodent and insect problem now — YOU WILL!!!

 Solutions for Apartment Dwellers

Persons in city apartments, office buildings, or homes without yards should keep a supply of waterproof paper containers on hand for emergency waste disposal. Where flush toilets cannot be used and open ground is not available for the construction of privies, such disposable containers offer a practical method of emergency waste collection and disposal. Building managers should plan for the collection of such containers and for their final disposal. Before collection, the used containers may be stored in tightly covered garbage cans or other water tight containers fitted with lids. Homemade soil bags for this purpose can be prepared very easily by putting one large grocery bag inside another, and a layer of shredded newspaper or other absorbent material between. You should have sufficient grocery bags on hand for possible emergencies. A supply of old newspapers will come in handy for other sanitary uses also, such as wrapping garbage and lining larger containers.

Babies

If you have a baby in your home, you may find diaper laundering a problem under emergency conditions. It is best to keep an ample supply of disposable diapers on hand for emergency use. Or, any moisture resistant material can be cut and folded to diaper size and lined with absorbent material. If these are not available, emergency diaper needs can be met by lining rubber pants with cleansing tissue, toilet paper, scraps of cloth, or other absorbent materials.

To help insure proper sanitation it is imperative that you store a sufficient supply of disposable diapers, disposable wipes, and plastic garbage can liners. Change infants and toddlers regularly and keep them clean. Dispose of the soiled diapers in the plastic garbage can liners and keep them tightly sealed when not in use to help prevent the spread of disease.

Be sure to wash your own hands regularly when working with infants (especially after each diaper change). Typhoid fever, amoebic dysentery, diarrhea, infectious hepatitis, salmonella, and giardiasis are diseases that spread rapidly in times of emergency and threaten all, yet are all diseases that can easily be controlled by simply following the rules of good sanitation.

 Tips for Staying Clean in an Emergency

As much as possible, continue regular hygiene habits such as brushing your teeth, washing your face, combing your hair and even washing your body with a wet washcloth. This will help prevent the spread of disease and irritation as well as help relieve stress.

• Keep your fingers out of your mouth. Avoid handling food with your hands.
• Purify your drinking water. Use chlorine bleach, purification tablets (check bottle for expiration dates), or by boiling for 10 minutes.
• Sterilize your eating utensils by heat. You can also rinse dishes in purified water that has additional chlorine bleach added to it. (Use 2 1/2 teaspoons bleach per gallon of purified water.)
• Keep your clothing as clean and dry as possible, especially under-clothing and socks.

There are dozens of other small things that people can do to keep themselves and their families safe and disease free during an emergency. One of the most important and least-thought about things is constant hand-washing. This is important during regular circumstances, but during a disaster, it should become a top priority. You should sing the kids alphabet song clear through TWICE while washing to thoroughly kill all germs.

Wash and disinfect hands before preparing or eating food, after going to the bathroom, after changing diapers or caring for someone who is sick, after handling anything that could be infected or germ-ridden, and before treating any cuts or wounds, no matter how minor. When hands are visibly dirty, they should be washed with soap, even if people are diligent about using alcohol-based hand sanitizer. If soap or water isn’t available, keep using the sanitizer consistently.

Although sanitation and hygiene are sometimes unpleasant topics to dwell on, people must think about them if they want to get through a disaster disease-free. If they follow the above instructions, as well as following their regular sanitation routine (i.e. face-washing, tooth-brushing, and bathing regularly) as much as possible, then they shouldn’t have any trouble staying clean during an emergency

Domestic Terrorism

DOMESTIC TERRORISM PREPAREDNESS

Images of airliners used as missiles in terrorist attacks on the World Trade Center and the Pentagon as well as bombing attacks on the Murrah Federal Building in Oklahoma City and the Olympic Centennial Park in Atlanta are hard to forget.  These terrorist events caused thousands of deaths and injuries and billions of dollars in property losses. They have also inflicted a huge emotional toll within the impacted communities as well as throughout the world.  The FBI defines terrorism as “the unlawful use of force or violence against persons or property to intimidate or coerce a government, the civilian population, or any segment thereof, in furtherance of political or social objectives.” A significant terrorism threat we face today is that of Weapons of Mass Destruction (WMD) and these consist of Nuclear, Biological and Chemical (NBC) weapons.

Although bombing has been the most popular method used in terrorist incidents in the United States, terrorism can occur in several forms. In recent years, terrorists throughout the world have used arson, hostile takeovers and shootings to attain their political and social goals.

In the future, terrorists could use chemical or biological agents. Because the impact of exposure to some organisms, toxins and other biological agents may not cause an immediate illness or reaction, it may take some time for government officials to determine that such an attack has occurred.

In the event of an attack, government officials will instruct residents on what actions they are taking and what actions the public should take. It’s important that you remain calm, cooperate fully with local officials and do not try to be a hero.  Failure to follow instructions from local officials could cost you and others their lives. In the event of a chemical or biological attack, instructions will be provided by local public health and safety officials on personal protection, decontamination and health warnings via the Emergency Alert System (EAS) broadcast over radio and television as well as print media.

 COMBATING TERRORISM

As we have seen, domestic and international terrorists can strike at any time. To combat the threat, emergency services officials representing all levels of government are working together to develop and implement effective strategies for deterring, preventing and responding to incidents.  To assist individuals in preparing for emergencies, the Unified San Diego County Emergency Services Organization, the County Office of Disaster Preparedness, State of California, American Red Cross and the Federal Emergency Management Agency, have provided information on what to do during emergencies.  The San Diego Operational Area Emergency Plan specifically addresses response to terrorist attacks. In addition, federal, state and local law enforcement, fire, and emergency medical officials meet on a regular basis to plan and evaluate preparedness activities throughout the county.  The public also has a role in reducing the impact of terrorism on their lives.

 Before an Attack

Prepare for the possibility of a terrorist incident in your area:

Learn about the nature of terrorism.

• Terrorists look for visible targets where they can avoid detection before or after an attack such as international airports, large cities, major international events, resorts and high-profile landmarks.
• Report any suspicious activities to the San Diego FBI office at (858) 565 -1255.

Adapt, as appropriate, the same techniques used to prepare for earthquakes, fires and other emergencies.

• Be prepared and observe your environment. Terrorists most often strike with little or no warning.
• Use caution when you travel. Observe and report unusual activity. Keep your packages with you at all times. Do not accept packages from strangers.
• Locate stairways and emergency exits and develop plans for evacuating buildings, subways and crowded public areas.

If you live or work in multi-level buildings:

• Identify the location of fire exits and review emergency evacuation procedures.
• Locate and maintain fire extinguishers in working order. Train responsible
• personnel how to use them.
• Obtain training in first aid and CPR.

Assemble and maintain an emergency supply kit for each floor that includes those items listed on the back of this brochure. Also compile essential emergency preparedness items in back packs for emergency response team members.

 During an Attack

If there’s an explosion:

• Remain calm. Take cover under a desk or sturdy table if ceiling tiles, bookshelves, their contents, etc. begin to fall.
• Exit the building as quickly as possible.

If there’s a fire:

• Stay low to the floor at all times and exit the building as quickly as possible. Heavy smoke and poisonous gases collect near the ceiling first.
• Use a wet cloth to cover your nose and mouth.
• Use the back of your hand to feel closed doors. If the door is not hot, brace yourself against the door and open it slowly. Do not open the door if it is hot.  Seek another escape route.
• Use appropriate fire exits, not elevators.

 After an Attack

If you are trapped in debris:

• If possible, use a flashlight or whistle to signal rescuers regarding your location.
• Stay in your area so that you don’t kick up dust. Cover your mouth with a handkerchief or clothing.
• Tap on a pipe or wall so that rescuers can hear where you are.
• Use a whistle if one is available. Shout only as a last resort—shouting can cause a person to inhale dangerous amounts of dust.

Protective Actions

Protective actions are actions we take to safeguard our family members and ourselves from harm. The most common emergency protective actions are evacuation and shelter-in- place.

• Evacuation means to leave the area of actual or potential hazard.
• Shelter-in-place means to stay indoors.  This includes additional precautions such as turning off air-conditioning, ventilation systems and closing all windows and doors.

 What Should You Do?

• Remain calm.
• Be aware of your surroundings.
• Have a Family Preparedness Plan.
• Stay informed.
• If an evacuation is ordered, follow the instructions of local officials regarding evacuation routes and the location of shelters.
• If shelter-in-place is recommended, local officials will provide instructions on necessary actions.
• Do not leave your sheltered location or return to the evacuated area until it is deemed safe to do by local officials.

Listed below are a few websites that provide emergency preparedness information.

www.fema.gov (Federal Emergency Management Agency)

www.oes.gov (California Office of Emergency Services)

www.co.san-diego.ca.us/ cnty/cntydepts/safety/disaster (S.D. County Office of Disaster Preparedness)

 EMERGENCY SUPPLY KIT

Maintaining an emergency supply kit is a good idea for any emergency. Individuals and organizations should be prepared to be without assistance for a minimum of 72 hours.

• Battery-powered radio, flashlights, batteries
• Whistle
• First aid kit and manual
• Hard hats
• Duct tape
• Fluorescent tape to rope off dangerous areas
• Water
• Food (canned, no-cook, packaged snacks)
• Manual can opener
• Cash and credit cards
• Change of clothing, rain gear, and sturdy shoes
• Blankets or sleeping bags
• Fire extinguisher (A-B-C) type
• Infant and feminine hygiene supplies
• Essential medicines and eyeglasses
• Names, addresses, and telephone numbers of doctors and pharmacist
• Food and water for pets
• Large plastic bags for trash, waste, water protection
• Toilet paper and paper towels
• Charcoal grill or camp stove for outdoor cooking
• Don’t forget that the front of the White Pages of your Pacific Bell telephone directory contains a handy First Aid and Survival Guide (Section B).

For further information on preparing for an emergency please contact:

San Diego County

Office of Disaster Preparedness

(858) 565-3490

 

Floods

 

Watches and Warnings

What to do

 When a flood WATCH is issued

• Move valuable household possessions to the upper floors of your home.
• Fill your car’s gas tank in the event an evacuation order is issued.

When a flood WARNING is issued

• Tune in for information and advice to local radio and TV stations.
• When told to evacuate, do so as quickly as possible.

When a flash flood WATCH is issued

• Watch for signs of flash flooding and be ready to evacuate on a moment’s notice.

When a flash flood WARNING is issued

• If you believe flash flooding has begun, evacuate immediately as you may have only seconds to escape.
• Move to higher ground and away from rivers, streams, creeks and storm drains.
• Do not drive around barricades. These are placed to keep you out of harm’s way.
• If your car stalls in rapidly rising waters, abandon it immediately and climb to higher ground.

 California Governor’s Office of Emergency Services (OES)

CA Wild Fires

 

 

Number of Fires and Acres Burned in California:

Interval	Fires	Acres
January 1, 2009 through September 26, 2009	7,198	54,109
January 1, 2008 through September 26, 2008	5,007	357,903
5 year average (same interval)	6,689	172,848

(All statistics are for CDF jurisdiction fires only and are subject to change until final fire season reports are completed and tabulated.)

Evacuations save lives and allow responding personnel to focus on the emergency at hand.  Please evacuate promptly when requested!

Evacuation Orders

The terms Voluntary and Mandatory are used to describe evacuation orders.  How­ever, local jurisdictions may use other terminology such as Precautionary and Imme­diate Threat.  These terms are used to alert you to the significance of the danger.  All evacuation instructions provided by officials should be followed immediately for your safety.

If Evacuation is a Possibility

Park your vehicle facing outward and carry your car keys with you.

Locate your pets and keep them nearby.

Prepare farm animals for transport.

Place connected garden hoses and buckets full of water around the house.

Move propane BBQ appliances away from structures.

Cover-up. Wear long pants, long sleeve shirt, heavy shoes/boots, cap, dry bandanna for face cover, goggles or glasses. 100% cotton is preferable.

Leave lights on in the house – door unlocked.

Leave windows closed – air conditioning off.

The Evacuation Process

Officials will determine the areas to be evacuated and the routes to use depending upon the fire’s location, behavior, winds, terrain, etc.

Law enforcement agencies are typically responsible for enforcing an evacuation order.  Follow their directions promptly.

You will be advised of potential evacuations as early as possible. You must take the  initiative to stay informed and aware.  Listen to your radio/TV for announcements from law enforcement and emergency personnel.

You may be directed to temporary assembly areas to await transfer to a safe location.

If You Become Trapped

While in your vehicle:

Stay calm.

Park your vehicle in an area clear of vegetation.

Close all vehicle windows and vents.

Cover yourself with wool blanket or jacket.

Lie on vehicle floor.

Use your cell phone to advise officials – Call 911.

While on foot:

Stay calm.

Go to an area clear of vegetation, a ditch or depression if possible.

Lie face down, cover up.

Use your cell phone to advise officials – Call 911.

While in your home:

Stay calm, keep your family together.

Call 911 and inform authorities of your location.

Fill sinks and tubs with cold water.

Keep doors and windows closed, but unlocked.

Stay inside your house.

Stay away from outside walls and windows.  (Note – it will get hot in the house, but it is much hotter, and more dangerous outside.)

 After the fire passes, and if it is safe, check the following areas for fire:

The roof and house exterior.

Under decks and inside your attic.

Your yard for burning trees, woodpiles, etc.

 Returning Home

Fire officials will determine when it is safe for you to return to your home.  This will be done as soon as possible considering safety and accessibility.

 When you return home:

Be alert for downed power lines and other hazards.

Check propane tanks, regulators, and lines before turning gas on.

Check your residence carefully for hidden embers or smoldering fires.

www.fire.ca.gov

For updates during a wildfire emergency:

Visit the San Diego County Emergency homepage at: http://www.sdcounty.ca.gov/dmpr/emer/

Call 2-1-1.  211 is the new national dialing code for free, 24-hour community, health, disaster information, and more.  If you are unable to reach 2-1-1 from your cell phone or you are calling from outside San Diego County, please use (858) 300-1211.

Have a battery operated radio and listen to local radio stations

Tune into local news stations such as NBC, CBS, ABC, and KUSI

Date Labeling on Foods

Except for infant formula and some baby foods, product dating is not generally required by the federal government.  Dating of some foods is required in over 20 states but there is no uniform accepted dating system in the U.S.  There are some areas where almost none of the food is dated.

Types of Dates

• A “Sell-By” date tells the store how long to display the product for sale. You should buy the product before the date expires.
• A “Best if Used By (or Before)” date is recommended for best flavor or quality. It is not a purchase or safety date.
• A “Use-By” date is the last date recommended for the use of the product while at peak quality. The date has been determined by the manufacturer of the product.
• “Closed or coded dates” are packing numbers for use by the manufacturer.

Safety After Expiration Date
Except for “use-by” dates, product dates don’t always refer to home storage and use after purchase. “Use-by” dates usually refer to best quality and are not safety dates. But even if the date expires during home storage, a product should be safe, wholesome and of good quality — if handled properly and kept at 40° F or below. See the accompanying refrigerator charts for storage times of dated products. If product has a “use-by” date, follow that date. If product has a “sell-by” date or no date, cook or freeze the product by the times on the chart.

Codes on Cans
Can codes are usually made up of letters and/or numbers.  This lets the manufacture to track products in interstate commerce. They also use this code to rotate their stock, and to find their products in the case of a recall.  These codes are not meant for the consumer.

Generally, high-acid canned foods such as tomatoes, grapefruit and pineapple can be stored 12 to 18 months.  Low-acid canned foods such as meat, poultry, fish and most vegetables can keep 2 to 5 years.  The cans need to be stored in a cool, clean, and dry place.

Egg Cartons“Sell by” or “expiration” dates are not required by the federal government, but may be required by your state.   Many eggs reach the stores a few days after the hen lays them.

Egg cartons with the USDA grade on must give the “pack date”.  This is the day that the eggs were washed, graded, and packed into the carton.  The code date can not exceed 45 days from the packing date.  The 3 digit code uses the “Julian Date”.   It starts with January 1 as 001 and ending with December 31 as 365.

Always buy eggs before the “Sell-By” or “EXP” date. At home refrigerate the eggs in their original carton and put them in the coldest part of the refrigerator.  Do not store them in the door. For best quality, use eggs within 3 to 5 weeks of the date you purchase them. The “sell-by” date will usually expire during that length of time, but the eggs are perfectly safe to use.

UPC or Bar Codes
Universal Product Codes are black lines over a series of numbers. They are not required by law but are printed so supermarket scanners can “read” the price at checkout.  They are also used for inventory.  Bar Codes are not used to identify recalled products.

Storage Tips
Product dates are not a guide for the food’s safety.   Follow these tips to store food and still be able to keep it at top quality:

• Purchase the product before the date expires.
• If perishable, take the food home right away after buying and refrigerate it immediately. Freeze it if you can’t use it within the times recommended on chart.
• Once a perishable product is frozen, it doesn’t matter if the date expires because foods kept frozen continuously are safe indefinitely.
• Follow handling recommendations on product.
• Consult the following storage chart.

Refrigerator Home Storage (at 40 °F or below) of Fresh or Uncooked Products

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If product has a “use-by” date, follow that date.  If product has a “sell-by” date or no date, cook or freeze the product by the times on the chart below.

Storage of Fresh or Uncooked Products
Product	Storage Times After Purchase
Poultry	1 or 2 days
Beef, Veal, Pork and Lamb	3 to 5 days
Ground Meat and Ground Poultry	1 or 2 days
Fresh Variety Meats (Liver, Tongue, Brain, Kidneys, Heart, Chitterlings)	1 or 2 days
Cured Ham, Cook-Before-Eating	5 to 7 days
Sausage from Pork, Beef or Turkey, Uncooked	1 or 2 days
Eggs	3 to 5 weeks

Refrigerator Home Storage (at 40 °F or below) of Processed Products Sealed at Plant

If product has a “use-by” date, follow that date.  If product has a “sell-by” or no date, cook or freeze the product by the times on the chart below.

Storage of Processed Products Sealed at Plant
Processed Product	Unopened, After Purchase	After Opening
Cooked Poultry	3 to 4 days	3 to 4 days
Cooked Sausage	3 to 4 days	3 to 4 days
Sausage, Hard/Dry, shelf-stable	6 weeks/pantry	3 weeks
Corned Beef, uncooked, in pouch with pickling juices	5 to 7 days	3 to 4 days
Vacuum-packed Dinners, Commercial Brand with USDA seal	2 weeks	3 to 4 days
Bacon	2 weeks	7 days
Hot dogs	2 weeks	1 week
Luncheon meat	2 weeks	3 to 5 days
Ham, fully cooked	7 days	slices, 3 days; whole, 7 days
Ham, canned, labeled “keep refrigerated”	9 months	3 to 4 days
Ham, canned, shelf stable	2 years/pantry	3 to 5 days
Canned Meat and Poultry, shelf stable	2 to 5 years/pantry	3 to 4 days

(Source:  U.S. Gov’t/2-8-08)

Keeping Food Safe During an Emergency

Did you know that a flood, fire, national disaster, or the loss of power from high winds, snow, or ice could jeopardize the safety of your food? Knowing how to determine if food is safe and how to keep food safe will help minimize the potential loss of food and reduce the risk of food borne illness. This fact sheet will help you make the right decisions for keeping your family safe during an emergency.

ABCD’s of Keeping Food Safe in an Emergency

Always keep meat, poultry, fish, and eggs refrigerated at or below 40 °F and frozen food at or below 0 °F. This may be difficult when the power is out.

Keep the refrigerator and freezer doors closed as much as possible to maintain the cold temperature. The refrigerator will keep food safely cold for about 4 hours if it is unopened. A full freezer will hold the temperature for approximately 48 hours (24 hours if it is half full) if the door remains closed. Obtain dry or block ice to keep your refrigerator as cold as possible if the power is going to be out for a prolonged period of time. Fifty pounds of dry ice should hold an 18-cubic foot full freezer for 2 days. Plan ahead and know where dry ice and block ice can be purchased.

Be prepared for an emergency…

… by having items on hand that don’t require refrigeration and can be eaten cold or heated on the outdoor grill. Shelf-stable food, boxed or canned milk, water, and canned goods should be part of a planned emergency food supply. Make sure you have ready-to-use baby formula for infants and pet food. Remember to use these items and replace them from time to time. Be sure to keep a hand-held can opener for an emergency.

Consider what you can do ahead of time to store your food safely in an emergency. If you live in a location that could be affected by a flood, plan your food storage on shelves that will be safely out of the way of contaminated water. Coolers are a great help for keeping food cold if the power will be out for more than 4 hours—have a couple on hand along with frozen gel packs. When your freezer is not full, keep items close together—this helps the food stay cold longer.

Digital, dial, or instant-read food thermometers and appliance thermometers will help you know if the food is at safe temperatures. Keep appliance thermometers in the refrigerator and freezer at all times. When the power is out, an appliance thermometer will always indicate the temperature in the refrigerator and freezer no matter how long the power has been out. The refrigerator temperature should be 40 °F or below; the freezer, 0 °F or lower. If you’re not sure a particular food is cold enough, take its temperature with a food thermometer.

Frequently Asked Questions:

Q. Flood waters covered our food stored on shelves and in cabinets. What can I keep and what should I throw out?

A. Do not eat any food that may have come into contact with flood water.

Discard any food that is not in a waterproof container if there is any chance that it has come into contact with flood water. Food containers that are not waterproof include those with screw-caps, snap lids, pull tops, and crimped caps. Also, discard cardboard juice/milk/baby formula boxes and home canned foods if they have come in contact with flood water, because they cannot be effectively cleaned and sanitized.

Inspect canned foods and discard any food in damaged cans. Can damage is shown by swelling, leakage, punctures, holes, fractures, extensive deep rusting, or crushing/denting severe enough to prevent normal stacking or opening with a manual, wheel-type can opener.

Steps to Salvage All-Metal Cans and Retort Pouches

Undamaged, commercially prepared foods in all-metal cans and retort pouches (for example, flexible, shelf-stable juice or seafood pouches) can be saved if you do the following:

• Remove the labels, if they are the removable kind, since they can harbor dirt and bacteria.
• Thoroughly wash the cans or retort pouches with soap and water, using hot water if it is available.
• Brush or wipe away any dirt or silt.
• Rinse the cans or retort pouches with water that is safe for drinking, if available, since dirt or residual soap will reduce the effectiveness of chlorine sanitation.
• Then, sanitize them by immersion in one of the two following ways:

Place in water and allow the water to come to a boil and continue boiling for 2 minutes, or

Place in a freshly made solution consisting of 1 tablespoon of unscented, liquid chlorine bleach per gallon of drinking water (or the cleanest, clearest water available) for 15 minutes.

• Air-dry cans or retort pouches for a minimum of 1 hour before opening or storing.
• If the labels were removable, then re-label your cans or retort pouches, including the expiration date (if available), with a marker.
• Food in reconditioned cans or retort pouches should be used as soon as possible, thereafter.
• Any concentrated baby formula in reconditioned, all-metal containers must be diluted with clean, drinking water.

Q. How should I clean my pots, pans, dishes, and utensils?

A. Thoroughly wash metal pans, ceramic dishes, and utensils (including can openers) with soap and water, using hot water if available. Rinse and then sanitize them by boiling in clean water or immersing them for 15 minutes in a solution of 1 tablespoon of unscented, liquid chlorine bleach per gallon of drinking water (or the cleanest, clearest water available).

Q. How should I clean my countertops?

A. Thoroughly wash countertops with soap and water, using hot water if available. Rinse and then sanitize them by applying a solution of 1 tablespoon of unscented, liquid chlorine bleach per gallon of drinking water (or the cleanest, clearest water available). Allow to air-dry.

Q. My home was flooded and I am worried about the safety of the drinking water. What should I do?

A. Use bottled water that has not been exposed to flood waters if it is available.

• If you don’t have bottled water, you should boil water to make sure it is safe. Boiling water will kill most types of disease-causing organisms that may be present. If the water is cloudy, filter it through clean cloths or allow it to settle, and draw off the clear water for boiling. Boil the water for one minute, let it cool, and store it in clean containers with covers.
• If you can’t boil water, you can disinfect it using household bleach. Bleach will kill some, but not all, types of disease-causing organisms that may be in the water. If the water is cloudy, filter it through clean cloths or allow it to settle, and draw off the clear water for disinfection. Add 1/8 teaspoon (or 8 drops) of regular, unscented, liquid household bleach for each gallon of water, stir it well and let it stand for 30 minutes before you use it. Store disinfected water in clean containers with covers.
• If you have a well that had been flooded, the water should be tested and disinfected after flood waters recede. If you suspect that your well may be contaminated, contact your local or state health department or agriculture extension agent for specific advice.

Q. We had a fire in our home and I am worried about what food I can keep and what to throw away.

A. Discard food that has been near a fire. Food exposed to fire can be damaged by the heat of the fire, smoke fumes, and chemicals used to fight the fire. Food in cans or jars may appear to be okay, but the heat from a fire can activate food spoilage bacteria. If the heat is extreme, the cans or jars themselves can split or rupture, rendering the food unsafe.

One of the most dangerous elements of a fire is sometimes not the fire itself, but toxic fumes released from burning materials. Discard any raw food or food in permeable packaging—cardboard, plastic wrap, screw-topped jars, bottles, etc.—stored outside the refrigerator. Food stored in refrigerators or freezers can also become contaminated by fumes. The refrigerator seal isn’t airtight and fumes can get inside. Chemicals used to fight the fire contain toxic materials and can contaminate food and cookware. Food that is exposed to chemicals should be thrown away—the chemicals cannot be washed off the food. This includes food stored at room temperature, such as fruits and vegetables, as well as food stored in permeable containers like cardboard and screw-topped jars and bottles. Cookware exposed to fire-fighting chemicals can be decontaminated by washing in soap and hot water. Then submerge for 15 minutes in a solution of 1 tablespoon unscented, liquid chlorine bleach per gallon of water.

Q. A snowstorm knocked down the power lines, can I put the food from the refrigerator and freezer out in the snow?

A. No, frozen food can thaw if it is exposed to the sun’s rays even when the temperature is very cold. Refrigerated food may become too warm and foodborne bacteria could grow. The outside temperature could vary hour by hour and the temperature outside will not protect refrigerated and frozen food. Additionally, perishable items could be exposed to unsanitary conditions or to animals. Animals may harbor bacteria or disease; never consume food that has come in contact with an animal. Rather than putting the food outside, consider taking advantage of the cold temperatures by making ice. Fill buckets, empty milk cartons or cans with water and leave them outside to freeze. Then put the homemade ice in your refrigerator, freezer, or coolers.

Q. Some of my food in the freezer started to thaw or had thawed when the power came back on. Is the food safe? How long will the food in the refrigerator be safe with the power off?

A. Never taste food to determine its safety! You will have to evaluate each item separately. If an appliance thermometer was kept in the freezer, read the temperature when the power comes back on. If the appliance thermometer stored in the freezer reads 40 °F or below, the food is safe and may be refrozen. If a thermometer has not been kept in the freezer, check each package of food to determine the safety. Remember you can’t rely on appearance or odor. If the food still contains ice crystals or is 40 °F or below, it is safe to refreeze. Refrigerated food should be safe as long as power is out no more than 4 hours. Keep the door closed as much as possible. Discard any perishable food (such as meat, poultry, fish, eggs, and leftovers) that have been above 40 °F for 2 hours.

Q. May I refreeze the food in the freezer if it thawed or partially thawed?

A. Yes, the food may be safely refrozen if the food still contains ice crystals or is at 40 °F or below. You will have to evaluate each item separately. Be sure to discard any items in either the freezer or the refrigerator that have come into contact with raw meat juices. Partial thawing and refreezing may reduce the quality of some food, but the food will remain safe to eat. See the attached charts for specific recommendations.

Refrigerator Foods

When to Save and When to Throw It Out
FOOD	Held above 40 °F for over 2 hours
MEAT, POULTRY, SEAFOOD Raw or leftover cooked meat, poultry, fish, or seafood; soy meat substitutes	Discard
Thawing meat or poultry	Discard
Meat, tuna, shrimp,chicken, or egg salad	Discard
Gravy, stuffing, broth	Discard
Lunchmeats, hot dogs, bacon, sausage, dried beef	Discard
Pizza – with any topping	Discard
Canned hams labeled “Keep Refrigerated”	Discard
Canned meats and fish, opened	Discard
CHEESE Soft Cheeses: blue/bleu, Roquefort, Brie, Camembert, cottage, cream, Edam, Monterey Jack, ricotta, mozzarella, Muenster, Neufchatel, queso blanco, queso fresco	Discard
Hard Cheeses: Cheddar, Colby, Swiss, Parmesan, provolone, Romano	Safe
Processed Cheeses	Safe
Shredded Cheeses	Discard
Low-fat Cheeses	Discard
Grated Parmesan, Romano, or combination (in can or jar)	Safe
DAIRY Milk, cream, sour cream, buttermilk, evaporated milk, yogurt, eggnog, soy milk	Discard
Butter, margarine	Safe
Baby formula, opened	Discard
EGGS Fresh eggs, hard-cooked in shell, egg dishes, egg products	Discard
Custards and puddings	Discard
CASSEROLES, SOUPS, STEWS	Discard
FRUITS Fresh fruits, cut	Discard
Fruit juices, opened	Safe
Canned fruits, opened	Safe
Fresh fruits, coconut, raisins, dried fruits, candied fruits, dates	Safe
SAUCES, SPREADS, JAMS Opened mayonnaise, tartar sauce, horseradish	Discard if above 50 °F for over 8 hrs.
Peanut butter	Safe
Jelly, relish, taco sauce, mustard, catsup, olives, pickles	Safe
Worcestershire, soy, barbecue, Hoisin sauces	Safe
Fish sauces (oyster sauce)	Discard
Opened vinegar-based dressings	Safe
Opened creamy-based dressings	Discard
Spaghetti sauce, opened jar	Discard
BREAD, CAKES, COOKIES,PASTA, GRAINS Bread, rolls, cakes, muffins, quick breads, tortillas	Safe
Refrigerator biscuits,rolls, cookie dough	Discard
Cooked pasta, rice, potatoes	Discard
Pasta salads with mayonnaise or vinaigrette	Discard
Fresh pasta	Discard
Cheesecake	Discard
Breakfast foods –waffles, pancakes, bagels	Safe
PIES, PASTRY Pastries, cream filled	Discard
Pies – custard,cheese filled, or chiffon; quiche	Discard
Pies, fruit	Safe
VEGETABLES Fresh mushrooms, herbs, spices	Safe
Greens, pre-cut, pre-washed, packaged	Discard
Vegetables, raw	Safe
Vegetables, cooked; tofu	Discard
Vegetable juice, opened	Discard
Baked potatoes	Discard
Commercial garlic in oil	Discard
Potato Salad	Discard

Frozen Food

When to Save and When To Throw It Out
FOOD	Still contains ice crystals and feels as cold as if refrigerated	Thawed. Held above 40 °F for over 2 hours
MEAT, POULTRY, SEAFOOD Beef, veal, lamb, pork, and ground meats	Refreeze	Discard
Poultry and ground poultry	Refreeze	Discard
Variety meats (liver, kidney, heart, chitterlings)	Refreeze	Discard
Casseroles, stews, soups	Refreeze	Discard
Fish, shellfish, breaded seafood products	Refreeze. However, there will be some texture and flavor loss.	Discard
DAIRY Milk	Refreeze. May lose some texture.	Discard
Eggs (out of shell) and egg products	Refreeze	Discard
Ice cream, frozen yogurt	Discard	Discard
Cheese (soft and semi-soft)	Refreeze. May lose some texture.	Discard
Hard cheeses	Refreeze	Refreeze
Shredded cheeses	Refreeze	Discard
Casseroles containing milk, cream, eggs, soft cheeses	Refreeze	Discard
Cheesecake	Refreeze	Discard
FRUITS Juices	Refreeze	Refreeze. Discard if mold, yeasty smell, or sliminess develops.
Home or commercially packaged	Refreeze. Will change texture and flavor.	Refreeze. Discard if mold, yeasty smell, or sliminess develops.
VEGETABLES Juices	Refreeze	Discard after held above 40 °F for 6 hours.
Home or commercially packaged or blanched	Refreeze. May suffer texture and flavor loss.	Discard after held above 40 °F for 6 hours.
BREADS, PASTRIES Breads, rolls, muffins, cakes (without custard fillings)	Refreeze	Refreeze
Cakes, pies, pastries with custard or cheese filling	Refreeze	Discard
Pie crusts, commercial and homemade bread dough	Refreeze. Some quality loss may occur.	Refreeze. Quality loss is considerable.
OTHER Casseroles – pasta, rice based	Refreeze	Discard
Flour, cornmeal, nuts	Refreeze	Refreeze
Breakfast items –waffles, pancakes, bagels	Refreeze	Refreeze
Frozen meal, entree, specialty items (pizza, sausage and biscuit, meat pie,convenience foods)	Refreeze	Discard

usda.gov

(Last Modified 9-6-06)

Self Reliance

Provide for Self and Family

Members of  The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (sometimes inadvertently called the “Mormon Church”) are respon­sible for their own spiritual and temporal well-being.  Blessed with the gift of agency, they have the privilege of setting their own course, solving their own prob­lems, and striving to become self-reliant.  Members do this under the inspiration of the Lord and with the labor of their own hands.

Elements of Self Reliance

Self-reliance is the ability, com­mitment, and effort to provide the necessities of life for self and family.  As members become self-reliant, they are also better able to serve and care for others.

Some of the areas in which members should become self-reliant are:

Education

Education can en­rich, ennoble, and provide under­standing that leads to a happier life. Members should study the scriptures and other good books; improve their ability to read, write, and do basic mathematics; and obtain skills needed for suit­able employment.

Health

The Lord has com­manded members to take care of their minds and bodies.  They should obey the Word of Wis­dom, eat nutritious food, exercise regularly, and get adequate sleep.  They should shun substances or practices that abuse their bodies or minds and that could lead to addiction .  They should practice good sanitation and hygiene and obtain adequate medical and den­tal care.  They should also strive to cultivate good relationships with family members and others.

Employment

Work is the foun­dation upon which self-reliance and temporal well-being rest.  Members should prepare for and carefully select a suitable occu­pation or self-employment that will provide for their own and their families’ needs.  They should become skilled at their jobs, be diligent and trustworthy, and give honest work for the pay and benefits they receive.

Home Storage

To help care for themselves and their families, members should:

• Build a three-month supply of food that is part of their normal diet.
• Store drinking water in case the water supply becomes polluted or disrupted.
• Gradually build a longer-term supply of food that will sustain life.

Finances

To become financially self-reliant, members should:

• Pay tithes and offerings.
• Avoid unnecessary debt.
• Use a budget and live within a plan.
• Gradually build a financial reserve by regularly saving a little.
• Teach family members prin­ciples of financial management.

Spiritual Strength

Spirituality is essential to a person’s temporal and eternal well-being.  Church members should exercise faith in Heavenly Father and Jesus Christ, obey God’s commandments, pray daily, study the scriptures and teachings of the latter-day proph­ets, attend Church meetings, and serve in Church callings and as­signments.

Source:  Providing in the Lord’s Way

Cat Paw Cuts

Cats may occasionally get laceration injuries to their paw pads from gravel, glass, wire, tree limbs & foreign bodies. It is important to seek veterinary care to prevent further damage.

Symptoms

Licking at Paw

Wound

Difficulty Walking

Pink Flesh

Bleeding

Discomfort

Laceration

Steps

1. Muzzle your pet because they might bite you if they are in pain
2. Put a gauze pad against the wound and slip a cotton sock over the foot
3. Tape a plastic bag over the sock
4. Once the bleeding has stopped use blunt scissors to trim the fur around the wound
5. Wash the cut with mild soap and water then pat dry with a clean, soft cloth
6. Apply Neosporin or Bactine to help prevent infection
7. Watch for swelling, fever, or discharge which would indicate an infection
8. If bleeding continues or the cut appears deep call your veterinarian immediately
9. Provide direct pressure on the wound as you drive to the Vet’s office

Warnings

If your cat goes outside make sure to cover the injury with a temporary bandage and then remove it within a couple hours

Never apply an ice pack directly to the wound

Tips

The paw has huge concentrations of blood vessels and they may bleed a lot

The wound heals better when left to open air

(source:gotoaid.com)

Safe Drinking Water After a Large Earthquake

WATER IS THE MOST IMPORTANT ITEM TO STORE

Loss of safe drinking water can be deadly. Most people, with few exceptions, will be feeling the effects if they do without water for more than 36 hours. Dehydration occurs much quicker than starvation. Our bodies can tolerate the loss of food much better.

With an ample water supply, starvation is delayed many days, even weeks.

The City water supply is vulnerable to the effects of a large earthquake. Contaminants can get into the drinking water supply through ruptures in the pipes, through the mixing up of sediments, through the adulteration of filtering systems, etc. Now, we take our water for granted. That will be dangerous after a big quake.

HOW MUCH SHOULD I STORE?

A good rule of thumb is:  5 GALLONS PER PERSON (MINIMUM)

NOTE:  Treat your pet as a family member when thinking about how much to store.

WATER SOURCES:

• Bottled Water from the Store – 1- and 2-gallon sealed containers (NOTE: The 1- and 2- gallon containers you purchase in your local store are not designed for long-term storage and will begin to leak/fail after about 6 months. )
• 1- and 5-Gallon Sealable Containers – From camping or survival stores. Be sure to sanitize container and treat the water that you are storing. Old bleach bottles, clearly marked, make good containers for water storage.
• 20-oz. to 1-Liter Designer Water Containers – Are usually marked with an expiration date, but are generally good for about two years
• 5-Gallon Water Bottles from Private Water Companies – Water companies claim their water and containers are good for up to five years, if still factory sealed & correctly stored in a cool dark location.

DO NOT STORE ANY PLASTIC WATER CONTAINER DIRECTLY ON CONCRETE.

The concrete will leech chemicals into the water, contaminating it and also degrading the plastic bottle, causing failure.

Store all plastic water containers on a wooden pallet or shelf. Keep water containers in a location where container failure will not destroy your other supplies.  Keep all water and supplies in a cool dark place.  Any water that you make up yourself needs to be treated.

If left untreated over time, it becomes contaminated with bacteria and algae.

• 8 DROPS OF PURE UNSCENTED LIQUID BLEACH PER GALLON OF WATER WILL REDUCE THE CONTAMINANTS IN THE WATER.
• ADD THE BLEACH WHEN YOU FIRST STORE THE WATER AWAY.

NOTE: ROTATE YOUR WATER EVERY SIX MONTHS  (This includes the 1- and 2-gallon sealed bottles purchased at the store, and the supply you made up from tap water with bleach added.)

If the purity of your water source is questionable, use the following methods to make the water safe to drink:

Best!  Add liquid chlorine beach to the water (8 drops per gallon of water.  Double this dose if the water is cloudy.)

Or

Good!  Add 2% Tincture of Iodne to the water (12 drops per gallon.  Double this dose if the water is cloudy.)

Or

Acceptable!  Boil the water vigorously (5 minutes at sea level, adding an extra minute for every 1000 feet above sea level.  Double this time if the water is cloudy.)

And

Don’t forget to clean and sanitize your food and water containers before using them.  Wash with soap and water then fill with a 10% bleach solution.  After 5 minutes empty the bleach solution and let air dry.

And

Water that is dirty should first be strained through a coffee filter,cheesecloth, or a paper towel to remove subpended matter.

Another source of water is the hot water heater. Every water heater has a drain valve near the bottom.

GETTING THE WATER OUT OF YOUR WATER HEATER :

• Use extreme caution. Let the water cool.
• Turn off the cold water supply to the tank
• Turn off the gas or electric heater for the tank
• Open the drain valve at the bottom

REMEMBER: Some sediment at the bottom of the tank may at first make water flowing out look murky. Continue to drain water until it becomes clear.

OTHER SOURCES OF WATER IN YOUR HOME

• Toilet Water Storage Tank. NOTE: Use the water from the Storage Tank – NOT THE TOILET BOWL (Don’t drink the water if you use coloring or chemicals in it)
• Melted Ice Cubes are a source of water
• Water-Packed Can Goods (even syrups are mostly water)
• Water Trapped In Home Piping. Water can be removed by locating and shutting off the main water valve. Then, open the valve at the highest point of your property (i.e., shower head, especially on the 2nd floor ). Then, when you open the valve at the lowest point, gravity will force the water from the pipes.

THE PREVIOUSLY MENTIONED SOURCES ARE FOR DRINKING AND FOOD PREPARATION

DO NOT DRINK POOL OR SPA WATER!  POOL WATER CONTAINS MANY TOXIC CHEMICALS AND HAS A HIGH POTENTIAL OF GIVING YOU DIARRHEA, CAUSING DEHYDRATION!

(Source:  Los Angeles Fire Departement – Emergency Preparedness Booklet)

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